My husband and I recently returned from an unforgettable journey to Italy! I wanted to create a place where I could comprehensively document our adventures, share vivid photos, and offer helpful advice to fellow travelers. So, here we are! I feel it's worth noting that our excursion was inspired by Rebecca Serle's captivating book, "One Italian Summer". So enthralled by the story, I immediately reached out to our trusted travel agent, Diana Traficante, to set the wheels in motion. This was back in May 2022, and fast forward two years, our dream became a reality!
Originally, we had planned to embark on this journey during the summer. However, we were advised against bringing our children to the Amalfi Coast during peak season. Therefore, we arranged for my parents to look after our little ones while we immersed ourselves in the Italian culture. And just like that, we were off!
Here is a breakdown of our 12 day trip:
Travel on a plane - Flight from Boston
2 Nights in Rome
4 Nights in Positano
2 Nights in Capri
2 Nights in Sorrento
1 Night in Rome
Friday, May 5th - Flight from Boston to Rome Airport (Travel Day)
Saturday, May 6th - Arrive at 7:30AM in Rome (Tour the Colosseum, Roman Forum, and Ancient Rome. Dinner at Roscioli Salumeria con Cucina)
Upon arrival, we were greeted by a private transfer that escorted us straight to our place of stay, The Pantheon Iconic, a gem within the Marriott Bonvoy group. Our room wasn't quite ready, but that didn't halt our eagerness to explore. After a quick freshen up and leaving our luggage behind, we plunged headfirst into the city's vibrant life.
First stop? A quaint little bar just around the corner for an indulgent morning treat - a rich cappuccino and a delicious cornetto from Sant'Eustachio Il Caffè. Energized and ready to go, we headed over to the Trastevere area, pausing at L'Antico Forno Roscioli to savor a light snack. As we meandered through Trastevere's charming streets, we couldn't resist picking up some delectable cookies from Innocenti Biscottificio.
Our evening began with a rendezvous with our knowledgeable tour guide, Gio, in the hotel lobby. She guided us through the local vicinity before leading us to the marvels of the Roman Forum and the Colosseum. After an informative three-hour tour, we returned to the hotel to freshen up for dinner at the acclaimed Salumeria Roscioli Restaurant.
This spot had been highly recommended by Katy Clarke from the Untold Italy Podcast, and let me tell you, it lived up to the hype! Just a little insider tip - make sure to book your reservation well in advance.
Sunday, May 7th - Rome (Tour Christian Catacombs along Appian Way & Basilica of Saint Paul. Dinner at Rimessa Roscioli)
After an unprecedented 11 hours of sleep, we awoke feeling absolutely rejuvenated. We had initially planned to visit the vibrant Sunday flea market, Porta Portese, but an uninterrupted sleep of such length was a rare luxury for us, especially as parents to two young children.
Our day started with a warm cappuccino at a nearby cafe before meeting Gio and our driver. They whisked us off to visit the historical Appian Way, the enigmatic Appian Catacombs, and the magnificent Basilica of Saint Paul. Due to a marathon, a significant number of streets were closed, preventing us from reaching the Baths of Caracalla or the famed Aventine keyhole.
Post-tour, we took a brief siesta before enjoying a lovely aperitivo and dinner at Rimessa Roscioli. This dining experience was nothing short of extraordinary - we opted for the chef's tasting menu with complementary wine pairings. I'll delve into the specifics of this culinary adventure in a separate post, but rest assured, it was scrumptious!
We originally had plans to join a pasta-making class in Trastevere with Devour Tours, but due to unforeseen circumstances, it was cancelled. They proposed a reschedule, but alas, our time in Rome was limited.
The evening ended with a leisurely stroll over the bridge back into Trastevere, where we enjoyed drinks at the stylish bar, Freni e Frizioni. En route back, we made a mandatory pit-stop at Gelateria La Romana, where I discovered a flavor that I will surely be dreaming about - Biscotto della nonna. Watch out for a separate post where I'll give an in-depth account of our memorable tasting dinner!
Monday, May 8th - Train Roma - Napoli - Positano (Train to Naples, tour Pompeii, arrive in Positano. Dinner at Da Vincenzo Positano 1958)
Upon reaching Napoli, we were expecting a driver to meet us and accompany us to lunch, but a slight miscommunication led to a change in plans. Leaving our luggage in the secure hold area at the train station, we hailed a taxi to indulge in some authentic Neapolitan pizza. After lunch, we took a short walk to marvel at a Banksy masterpiece located in Napoli. In hindsight, we would have explored more, but we were constrained by time and faced with intermittent rain. Plus, the city was alive with jubilation following S.S.C. Napoli's futbol team's Serie A title win!
A long wait later, our driver finally arrived and transported us to Pompeii, where a guide awaited to show us around in the drizzle. Serendipitously, we ran into my husband's cousin from Texas right there in Pompeii. Following our tour, the driver then took us on the notoriously treacherous journey to Positano on the Amalfi Coast.
I must say, this road is not for the faint-hearted. It appears to be a one-way road, but astonishingly, it isn’t. Our driver, undeterred by the route's reputation, even showed us videos on his phone, all while expertly navigating the challenging terrain. My husband and I were on edge throughout the journey, gripping the handles tightly.
Upon reaching Positano, a porter assisted us with our bags (charging 10 euros per bag) to our hotel, Hotel Covo dei Saraceni. Positano is a town known for its excess of stairs, and I promise you, you're underestimating the number. Depending on your accommodation, be prepared for a good amount of walking and climbing.
After settling in, we embarked on the arduous walk up to our dinner destination. According to Google Maps, the journey was supposed to take 8 minutes, but traversing the 300 stairs proved more time-consuming. Upon reaching the top, we savored an aperitivo at Il Tridente, located within Hotel Poseidon (make sure to reserve in advance, even just for drinks), before relishing a delightful meal at the family-run restaurant, Da Vincenzo.
Tuesday, May 9th - Positano (Day of leisure, dinner at La Tagliata)
This day was one purely for relaxation; we explored the enchanting alleys of Positano and spent the rest of our time lounging by the hotel's pool, soaking up what would turn out to be our last day of glorious sunshine.
As evening approached, we ventured out to our dinner reservation at La Tagliata, a true gem nestled high in the hills of Positano. This family-run establishment takes dining to a whole new level. With no set menu, dishes arrive at your table in a spontaneous, family-style fashion. The food was spectacular, but remember, euros are the preferred currency here – so carry some cash!
Following a fulfilling meal, we were transported back by the restaurant's shuttle, after which we decided to indulge in some drinks at Franco's Bar. There was only one seating area available, and it came with a 40 euro per person minimum. But Franco's Bar is an experience in itself, so we gladly obliged.
Coincidentally, an Irish couple seated next to us were informed of the same minimum charge. The man's response, in a jovial Irish accent, was, "Ahhhhh… we're Irish, that won't be a problem!" A friendship was instantly formed over shared travel anecdotes, culminating in us deciding to experience Positano's nightlife at the famed Music on the Rocks club.
Wednesday, May 10th - Positano (Tour Amalfi Coast by car, lunch at Azienda Agrituristica Il Raduno in Tramonti)
Our day began with the prospect of a leisurely Vespa tour of the Amalfi Coast, courtesy of GetYourGuide. However, with a heavy downpour forecasted, we had to preemptively canceled this plan. Instead, we arranged a car tour through the concierge at our hotel. This plan was feasible mainly due to the time of the year; summer would have made driving around quite the challenge due to the heavy traffic.
Our driver, Alex, with Compagnia Positano Limousine Service, was an absolute delight. He expertly navigated us through the Amalfi Coast, providing us with an immersive experience of the area. We took a brief stopover in Amalfi before heading for a charming lunch in Tramonti at Il Raduno, a quaint family-run vineyard. Post-lunch, our journey continued to Ravello.
Despite the relentless downpour, we managed to make the best of our day. Every experience, every view, every taste was unique and deeply enriching.
Thursday, May 11th - Positano (Day trip to Amalfi on the ferry, Grotta dello Smeraldo and dinner at Ristorante Saraceno d'Oro)
Our initial plans for the day involved a hike on the Path of the Gods, but the prospect of relentless rain led us to pre-emptively cancel (again) the trek. Surprisingly, the sun peeked out later in the day, prompting us to spontaneously catch a ferry back to Amalfi.
In Amalfi, we arranged for a lunch and tour with the Amalfi Lemon Experience. This was an intriguing adventure! Salvatore Aceto, our guide, passionately explained the lemon harvesting process, emphasizing the intense labor it requires. He showed us how every bit of the lemon is utilized to avoid waste, voicing his disdain for practices like serving sorbet in a hollowed-out lemon which leaves much of the fruit unused.
Following our captivating tour, we indulged in a scrumptious lunch featuring pizza fritta, lemon pasta, eggplant parmesan, and lemon torta. We then hopped on a ferry to the Grotta dello Smeraldo, an experience costing around 25 euros per person. This stunning grotto turned out to be the only one we managed to visit, but it was absolutely worth it.
I wish we could of made a quick trip back up to Ravello, but there was a huge bike race, Giro d'Italia, so all of the roads were closed!
In an unexpected turn of events, we found an unscheduled boat heading back to Positano, saving us a 2.5-hour wait for the next ferry. On our way to dinner, we impulsively stopped at Il Capitano (Faro Bar) for an aperitivo. The breathtaking views from this spot, paired with what my husband claims was the BEST negroni of our trip, made the experience unforgettable.
Our day concluded with a cozy dinner at a charming family-run restaurant, Sacaceno d’Oro, where we shared a pizza dressed with an amazing red pepper flakes oil.
*Watch out for a separate post where I'll discuss our experience at Hotel Covo dei Saraceni, where we stayed during this part of our trip.
The view from Faro Bar at Il Capitano!!!
Friday, May 12th - Positano - Capri (8hr boat tour of Capri, dinner at La Zagara)
However, the choppy seas made the journey over rough, to the point where we had to disembark my husband at the Capri port. The Captains, Federico and Raffaele, then took me on a truncated tour around the island. The rough waters ruled out visiting the grottos and passing through the Faraglioni. After a brief tour, they brought me back to the port.
Our anticipated 8-hour boat trip sadly reduced to a mere 3 hours. While it was disappointing to pay for the unused time, I understand that the Captains' time was paid for and we had prepaid for the tour through the travel agency. You might wonder if I would use You Know! again. Despite the weather playing spoilsport, I'd say yes! Federico and Raffaele genuinely tried to salvage what they could of a tough day. Next time, I would limit any boat tour to 2-3 hours, regardless of the weather conditions.
After this aquatic adventure, the travel agency had arranged a private transfer from Marina Grande via Capri Prestige (definite A+ rating) to our hotel, Hotel Caesar Augustus. While I will be dedicating an entire separate post to this hotel, words can barely do it justice. My advice? Go all out and stay here; it's located in Anacapri. I'll delve deeper into the Hotel Caesar Augustus experience in a forthcoming post.
Capri is divided into two municipalities, Capri and Anacapri. The former is renowned for luxury shopping, Marina Grande, Marina Piccola, Giardini di Augusto, Via Krupp, and Piazza Umberto I.
Anacapri, on the other hand, is quieter with more affordable shopping, and it's where you'll find the Blue Grotto, Monte Solaro, Villa San Michele, Chiesa San Michele, Fortini Coastal Walk, Punta Carena Lighthouse, Chiesa di Santa Sofia, and Casa Rossa.
While you can explore each area on foot, it's worth noting that you can't walk from Capri to Anacapri. You'll need to catch a taxi or bus to travel between them. Our taxi fare was 25 euros one way and 20 euros the other.
In the afternoon, we took a taxi down to Capri to sightsee. After our visit, we returned to the hotel to watch the sunset and enjoy an aperitivo on the patio. We strolled to La Zagara for dinner. This restaurant is nestled in a lemon grove, although it wasn't our first choice. Da Paolino, a much-talked-about spot, wasn't open for the season. In hindsight, you could skip La Zagara. If you can’t manage to get a reservation at Da Paolino, consider O'Parrucchiano La Favorita in Sorrento as an alternative.
Saturday, May 13th - Capri (Cheese, Olive Oil and Wine Tasting at Michel’angelo)
The weather was dreadful on this day – it rained heavily and even hailed at one point! Despite the challenging conditions, we toured around Anacapri in the morning, after which Holly and Gianluca from Michel'angelo kindly picked us up from our hotel. I learned about Holly from the Untold Italy podcast; the story of how she and Gianluca met is a fantastic tale worth listening to.
The experience with them was absolutely delightful, far surpassing my initial expectations. I had assumed Gianluca would simply present a variety of cheeses on a platter, but he went above and beyond! They offer not only tastings, but also cooking classes (both in person and virtual), dinners, and picnics, and I'm already planning to book another experience with them when we return. In fact, we're still enjoying many of their delectable goods, as I filled my suitcase with their wine, olive oil, and pasta!
As for Capri, I feel that our exploration remains incomplete. Here's what I hope to do when we return:
Embark on another boat tour around the island, hopefully in better weather
Visit all the grottos
Ride the chairlift to Monte Solaro
Dine at Da Paolino
Watch the sunset at Punta Carena Lighthouse
Have dinner with Holly and Gianluca
Stay at Hotel Caesar Augustus during better weather to fully enjoy the pool and patio
*Stay tuned for a separate post where I'll delve deeper into the cheese, wine and olive oil tasting we experienced!
Sunday, May 14th - Capri - Sorrento (Ferry from Capri to Sorrento, dinner at O'Parrucchiano La Favorita)
This is where the services of Capri Prestige truly shone, showcasing the value of using a travel agent to ensure a seamless travel experience! A private driver came to pick us up from our hotel and took us to Marina Grande. There, a representative was waiting to greet us. They promptly handed our luggage to a porter, ensuring that it was properly tagged for the ferry, and told us to meet at a specific port in 20 minutes.
We took advantage of the interlude to grab a snack. Beware, the area is teeming with what I call "Senora, Senora" restaurants, tourist traps that employ catchers to draw you in. I advise bypassing them altogether and heading straight to La Focacciera Capri (Porto). This establishment even earned us some nods of approval from locals who saw the box we were carrying!
Having reached the port and met up with our greeter, we were handed our ferry tickets. They ensured both our luggage and we ourselves boarded the ferry without a hitch. Upon reaching Sorrento, we met another private driver at the port who took charge of our luggage and escorted us to our hotel, the Grand Hotel Cocumella, which is actually located in Sant’Agnello, not Sorrento.
Later, we took the hotel shuttle into Sorrento and explored the town. We stopped for drinks at the D’Anton and Hotel Bellevue Syrene and sampled a fair amount of Limoncello. As we made our way back to the hotel, we found ourselves caught in a downpour.
That evening, we returned to Sorrento for dinner at O'Parrucchiano La Favorita. This dining experience was exactly what I had hoped La Zagara in Capri would be like. The setting was absolutely breath-taking and we particularly enjoyed the mussels, so much so that I would consider choosing them to have over pasta next time.
Monday, May 15th - Sorrento (Gastronomic Experience and dinner at Ristorante Donna Sofia)
We were whisked away mid-morning by a courteous driver to the charming Agriturismo Fattoria Terranova. Here, we indulged in the joy of learning how to craft delightful dishes like tiramisu, bruschetta, and ravioli. After the hands-on session, we sat down to savor the delectable lunch we had prepared ourselves, each bite complemented by a carefully selected wine pairing. This culinary adventure demands a dedicated post of its own - stay tuned for more!
As evening fell, we took a leisure stroll around the captivating town of Sorrento, pausing for a refreshing aperitivo at the acclaimed Cornelia Cocktail’s & More. For dinner, we headed to Ristorante Donna Sofia, a local gem heartily recommended by Alex, our Amalfi Coast driver who hails from Sorrento. I savored the exquisite scallop risotto, although I must admit, I regret not trying their signature dish - the intriguingly prepared salted cod. Check out the video below for a glimpse of their exceptional table presentation!
Tuesday, May 16th - Sorrento - Napoli - Roma (Sorrento to Rome, lunch at Trattoria Da Enzo al 29 Food tour with Full Belly Tours)
In the wee hours of the morning, we arranged for a private transfer from our hotel to Napoli train station. Upon entering the station, an unexpected request by a police officer for our passports had me on edge. However, reassurances from a local couple that this was standard procedure helped calm my nerves. After this brief interlude, we boarded our train, marking the start of our journey to Rome.
Upon our arrival in Rome, we embarked on a culinary adventure. Innocenti Biscottificio, with its array of scrumptious cookies, was our first stop - a selection of their treats was the perfect souvenir to take home. We also swung by Roscioli, snagging some fine cheeses and their divine sun-dried tomatoes. Our stomachs led us to Da Enzo for lunch, a cozy no-reservations venue with an irresistible charm. The wait was well worth it for their exquisite fried artichoke, carbonara, and cacio e pepe.
As evening draped the city, we rendezvoused with Nesim from Full Belly Tours for a culinary exploration of Testaccio. This tour, an absolute highlight of our trip, comes highly recommended, especially during the initial days of your Roman holiday. Nesim masterfully guides you past the tourist traps, unveiling hidden gastronomical gems along the way, along with tips on how to order an exceptional gelato. Given the richness of our experience, we're intrigued to join Nesim on one of his market tours on our next visit.
Wednesday, May 17th - Roma - Boston
Our final day arrived all too soon. Our dedicated driver arrived promptly to transport us to the airport, where we passed our remaining hours in the comforts of the Delta lounge. The flight was without incident, culminating in a heartwarming reunion with our delighted little ones upon arrival.
As for Rome, it seems we have merely skimmed the surface of its profound depths. Thus, upon our inevitable return, here's a peek at what I hope to discover:
Domus Aurea
Baths of Caracalla
Villa Borghese
Bocca della Verità
The Aventine Keyhole
Eat at Luciano Monosilio’s restaurant
Eat at Felice
A Trastevere Market Tour
Pasta Making class with Roscioli or Devour Tours
Another food tour with Nesim of Full Belly Tours
Always an adventure!
xoxo
Nellie
